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Yer 'avin a laugh ain't ya! Page 12 - A bit of threadlock on the servo saver collar, when it's tightened to be level with the bottom of the servo saver post, should stop it coming loose. Page 13 - You will need to file the servo saver "A" assembly to stop it fouling the chassis. Page 15 - I found the supplied servo arm to be a sloppy fit on my KO PS713 servo. I replaced it with one of the arms that came with the servo (using a hole the same, or a slightly greater, distance from the centre as the Yokomo part). A sloppily fitting servo arm will result in steering that does not centre consistently. Page 16 - Don't overtighten the 3x30mm screws into the servo posts, or you will make the steering tight - I put a drop of threadlock on those screws to stop them slackening off. Page 17 - The manual lists 6 M3x12 button head screws. My kit had 2 12mm and 4 10mm. I used the 10mm ones to screw on the pivot balls, and the 12mm ones for the front shock tower. Page 18 - As well as the 12mm screws, the kit also had two tiny tapping screws, which go into the small holes in the edge of the shock tower, to strengthen the mount to the gear case. It's important you fit these, as it's a weak point on the car. Page 19 - With the steering blocks, the manual says flat side up. In fact, the drawing is right, so the flat side should face downward. I put a drop of black grease on the Universal drive-shafts. Page 20 - The hinge-pins may need a little "encouragement" to slide in - I used a few light hammer taps. The M2.6x4 screws may not fully tighten - don't force them as you'll strip the head (like I almost did). My Hub carriers had a slightly different moulding shape, with thick screw holes on both sides of the top - the smaller screw hole (i.e. the one the screw tightens into) should face the front of the car. Page 21 - The silver pins on the rear dogbones should be inserted into the diff joints, not the wheel axle. Page 22 - I used the 2 M3x15mm screws to attach the upper arm to the hub carrier, rather than the 12mm one's suggested in the manual, as a result of the different style of hub carrier I had in my kit... Page 23 - ...that meant that I had to use the 12mm one's to mount the rear wing. I fitted the 15mm screws in the upper mounting holes, and the 12mm ones in the lower mounting holes. The wing mount plastic is soft and easy to strip if you overtighten the screw. Page 25 - Don't be stingy with the shock oil on the o-rings - get a little all around them. Tighten the shock ends up to the end of the threads - to grip the shock shaft, get a little paper towel and wrap it round the shaft, then grip with long-nose pliers. This is probably obvious, but the long shafts go with the long bodies, and the short shafts go with the short bodies - the manual doesn't mention it explicitly. Page 26 - I'm not keen on Yokomo's advice for filling the shocks with oil - when I did it their way, I ended up with shocks with a vacuum in them, that actually pulled the pistons back in, when normally you want a little "rebound" (i.e. the pistons are forced slowly back out when you compress the shock). The shock oil also seemed to be a 50/50 oil/washing-up liquid mix, so if you have some better quality 30wt silicone oil, I'd use that. My technique is this... 1. Screw the bleed screws all the way into the shock caps. 2. Fill the shock with oil as you would normally, moving the piston up and down slowly to get rid of air bubbles, so you have a little "hat" of oil protruding out of the top of the shock when the piston is at the bottom of it's travel. 3. Put a drop of oil on the cap, and screw the two parts together gently until tight - excess oil should run out. 4. Now when you compress the shock, it will probably rebound very quickly, and maybe not compress all the way. If you have no rebound, you need more oil in the shock. 5. Unscrew the bleed screw about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way out (no need to remove it), and slowly compress the shock. A small amount of oil will seep out of the screw thread. Tighten theмЅe#Р ёє(?&,>l,>l>> > ЊG(>ь>˜>Tю>GTimes New Roman Symbol ArialTimes New RomanYOKOMO MR4 BC BUILD TIPS (UPDATED 21/7/02) Overall, the quality of the mouldings, as far and fit and strength go, is excellent, although you will need a file to smooth out the flash on a lot of parts. If anything, the car is a little "over-designed" in my opinion, with a huge number of components around the sealed transmission area - the newer MR4 tourers seem a little simpler, but obviously don't have the same amount of weather protection. You will need a quality number 2 phillips screwdriver for the majority of the screws, which are machine screws into hard plastic - hard work indeed, so be patient to avoid ruining the screw heads. You'll also need a number 1 for a few of the smaller screws. In retrospect, perhaps some grease on the screw threads might have made the build a bit simpler. I always tighten screws in a "star" pattern, i.e. get all the screws partially threaded, and then do opposing screws in sequence. I also always use threadlock in metal-to-metal connections. I gave each of the metal bushings a drop of oil as I assembled it. Here's list of the bushings... 8 10x6mm (wheels) 8 8x4mm (layshaft (x2), belt tensioner (x2), steering (x4)) 4 8x5mm (diffs) I strongly recommend you build the car with ballraces in the wheels and the layshaft. A tip from Niels (aka Clocksmurf), you may want to get a countersinking drill bit, to open out some of the holes in the bottom of the chassis, so the screws don't protrude out of the bottom (it's only a fraction of a mm). I would assemble the car first to see whether you feel the screws will be a problem. You can also gain a tiny bit more wheelbase (around 1mm), by putting both the plastic spacers on the rear hubs in front of the hub. So here's the manual tips... Page 3 - The battery channel will need dremeling away along the edges to fit 3000's - I ended up thinning the edges by 50% on both sides. The part number for the 3000-suitable chassis is ZS-002TG3, however it's not cheap, is made of the graphite-mix plastic (which is lighter and stiffer), but has slots in the bottom for the cells, and needs a lower motor heatsink (ZS-304HL) to protect the motor. Also, you will need to file away the back of the chassis to fit the suspension arms - the parts highlighted should be filed until they are flush with the chassis, looking at it from the bottom. Page 4 and 5 - Firstly, the Stealth Lube is very gooey, and if you put too much in when assembling the diff (like I did), you won't be able to tighten it properly. Stick to just putting a layer on the balls, and maybe a thin coating on the gear where they will sit. (I coat my balls by putting a small amount of lube in my palm, and rolling my balls around in it (*snigger*)) Always use plenty of black grease on the thrust washers - if you put enough on, the thrust washer will hold itself together while you are trying to assemble it, instead of falling apart all the time. I also put a little black grease on each end of the spring, to keep the diff spinning smoothly. The diff balls are a push fit into the actual gears. On page 4, the cap screw with threadlock (which is like a splodge of blue paint on the thread) is listed as "Front", however this should be used in the rear (with the steel diff joint). Similarly, on page 5, one of the diagrams says "Steel Diff Joint Front" - but this is obviously in the rear. My steel joints needed a screw running through the threaded one to remove the flash. Page 6 - the kit actually comes with an 84 tooth spur gear, not a 78 (which is nice because it means you can gear the car lower for hot motors) Page 8 - the front dust cover angles down at the back - this bit needs to be located in the chassis properly. Page 10 - the backbone cover is really fiddly to get on. It should be lined up with the front of the main backbone moulding. Page 11 - screw with the shock still compressed (do not let the shock expand again, as you will just suck in air). 6. Now compress the shock again, and see how much rebound you get. You want the shock to slowly extend to about 50% of it's stroke. If it still rebounds too far, repeat step 5. If you have too little rebound, take the cap off, add oil, and go from step 3 again. Page 27 - Another fairly obvious one - the short shocks go on the front, and the long shocks go on the rear, not the other way round as the manual suggests at one point. Page 28 - The antenna pipe will need a little superglue to stop it falling out too easily - but don't get any glue on the antenna itself! (Note - I've found with further running that this still isn't enough - try looping the antenna wire once around the mount before threading it through the pipe, then tie a small knot (not too tight) in the antenna at the top of the pipe - this will help to hold it a bit more securely when you roll) Page 29 - The standard buggy tyres don't look like they would need gluing, unless you were on a really grippy surface. When fitting the wheel hubs, I used a touch of threadlock on each of the three screws (no-one wants a wheel to fall off mid-race). Page 31 - For my 3000's, I needed to file a little material off the part of the battery plate that locates at the front to get it over the cells. Page 32 - To get the wing to neatly clear the wing mounts, you'll need to trim the semi-circles marked on it's leading edge as well. Page 33 - The body cut lines are good, but you'll probably need to do some extra trimming, especially around the front to clear the steering arms and servo link. 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